Bosnia the Surreal: Emir Kusturica’s Fantasy Town Erasing the Brutal Past

By Gianluca Mezzofiore
April 11, 2014 12:13 GMT

Entering Andricgrad, the controversial and ambitious “town within a town” built by filmmaker Emir Kusturica in celebration of literature and culture, is like something out of a Jorge Luis Borges book.

Every stone in the town, from the 19th century-like Spanish ‘Francisco Goya’ café to the Orthodox Church that rises like a lighthouse on the Drina River, echoes The Bridge on the Drina, the 1945 masterpiece by Nobel prize-winning writer Ivo Andric.

The book, published in 1945, captures the history of the uneasy relationship between the cultures of Christian Europe and the Islamic Ottoman Empire through the bloody story of the 16th century Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge that was built in Visegrad.

Everything from Thomas Mann Street to the multiplex cinema “Dolly Bell” breathes art and literature. Andricgrad also features an Austro-Hungarian academy of fine arts, a wine-tasting bookshop promoting Kusturica’s own book, an opera house dedicated to Italy filmmaker Luchino Visconti where Kusturica plans to stage the premiere of his opera, based on Andric’s masterpiece.

A joint project between Kusturica (who has 51% of the share) and the government of Republika Srpska, the Serbian enclave carved out after the 1992-95 war, the theme park cost between €10m and €12m.

Fantasy town

The project is controversial to say the least as it has been raised on the site of a sports centre that was used as a detention camp during the war. About 3,000 Bosnian Muslims were killed in Visegrad on or near the 11-arched bridge. Before the war 63% of the town’s 25,000 inhabitants were Bosnian Muslims. Despite the Dayton Peace Agreement, which called for the Bosnian Muslims (known as Bosniaks) to be able to return to their homes, only around 5% have come back.

Bosniak activists such as Bakira Hasecic, who was raped at Visegrad police station by Serb paramilitary leader Milan Lukic and after the war founded the Association of Women Victims of War, say they would never put a foot in Kusturica’s fantasy town.

“I would never enter Andricgrad even if my life depends on it,” she told IBTimes UK. “On 26 May 1992 along [what has become] the access road to Andricgrad the first buses for Bosnian Muslims who were forced into exile [by Serb forces] used to pass. In the sports centre where we took our kids to play there was the biggest concentration camp for Bosniaks.”

Supporters of Andricgrad dismiss those claims as propaganda. They maintain that the construction provided much-needed jobs to Bosniaks and Serbs alike.

The mayor of the town, Slavisa Miskovic, accuses media of political manipulation. “No one in Visegrad is against Andricgrad,” he told us. “Andricgrad is supported by the majority of Visegrad inhabitants.”

But his remarks are dismissed by the president of the Islamic community, Bilal Memisevic. “The mayor lies. The mayor does not support Andricgrad. His ‘grace’ still has not had a coffee in Andricgrad.”

Rationalist architecture and metaphysical art

Erected on a stretch of land between the emerald green Drina and a tributary, Andricgrad strikes the visitor as a pastiche of Bosnia’s different history and stiles, where rationalist architecture and metaphysical art meet literary theme park.

Labelled a “time machine” by the official guide, it resembles more a nightmarish but fascinating caprice of genius. Behind a Serbian castle, Ottoman houses lead to a Byzantine tower; the main street is a clear example of Austro-Hungarian style.

Music pours out of Goya café into the empty Nikola Tesla town square, built in Renaissance style, where Ivo Andric’s black figure stands, unaware of controversies.

Kusturica himself is a controversial figure. He renounced Islam, despite being born Bosniak, and aligned himself with the Serbs. Local papers described project as “the unfortunate encounter between a limited imagination and poor knowledge of the past”.

Memisevic says: “It is politically dangerous because once the construction work has finished, Emir Kusturica is planning to shoot a movie based on Ivo Andric’s novel.

“The novel itself is a masterpiece in literary terms, but ideologically it is very dangerous work, because as every educated Bosnian Muslim knows it was commissioned by the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts of that period.”

Memisevic says that in the book and in the film script the role of Bosniaks “will be mocked in relation to what we really are”.

“We are native European and with the Ottoman Empire we have nothing in common besides religion,” he says.

“The director says that Andricgrad is a time machine through Visegrad. Every culture is represented there besides mine. What kind of time machine is that?”

2 Responses to “Bosnia the Surreal: Emir Kusturica’s Fantasy Town Erasing the Brutal Past”

  1. On Saturday 28 June, the day after the anniversary of the Bikavac fire, Andricgrad will formally be opened by Kusturica, Vucic and Dodik. To mark the notable day, the 100th anniversary of Gavrilo Princip’s assassination of Franz-Ferdinand, they will also unveil a commemorative plaque.

    news 26 Jun 14
    “Serb Leaders to Open ‘Andricgrad’ for WWI Centenary

    The opening of the mini-town built by film director Emir Kusturica in Bosnia’s Serb-led Republika Srpska will feature a commemoration of the assassin who helped spark WWI.
    Elvira M. Jukic


    Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Vucic and Republika Srpska President Milorad Dodik will attend the opening on Saturday of the newly-built mini-town of Andricgrad in eastern Bosnia at an event to mark the centenary of the start of World War I.

    At the event, a tribute will also be unveiled to Gavrilo Princip, the assassin who shot Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo on June 28, 1914 – the killing that helped to trigger the conflict.

    “On St Vitus Day, June 28, Serb people from both sides of [the River] Drina, the state heads of Republika Srpska and Serbia, and thousands of prominent attendees from all over the world will mark the centenary of the start of the Great War at this place,” the Andricgrad management said in a statement on Wednesday.

    It said that “the most important aspect of the opening of Andricgrad” would be the unveiling of a large mosaic featuring Princip, who it described as a hero.

    Kusturica, who initiated the building of the mini-town, has said that Princip’s assassination of Franz Ferdinand had positive effects, leading to the end of Austro-Hungarian rule over Bosnia.


  2. Friend of Bosnia Says:

    Why would anybody want to visit Andricgrad which is not just pastiche but most impoertabtky, artificial, when there are, despite the war’s destruction, still so many authentic historic places in Bosnia-Herzegovina, not just the Bascarsija or the old town of Mostar, but places like Pocitelj, Blagaj, Fojnica, Konjic, Jajce, Prusac, etc. which in many cases are not just museums but full of life.
    Why would I want to see Andricgrad except out of a morbid sense of curiosity and nauseated fascination about evil. The monuments the most depraved and evil human beings built as a memorial of their evil.
    And of course I’m not willing to pay entrance for it. Not that I will get into the quandary. I’m not willing to visit “Republika Srpska” for the same reason. Not one single cent from me to the cetniks.

    So my advise is if you want to see the Mehmet Pasa Sokolovic bridge, by all means do so. But always remember it is the headstone of over 3000 Bosniaks who were murdered on it just because they were Bosniaks and because it was their hometown, and the Drina which flows beneath it, is their graveyard. Let the cetniks say what they will, the more they deny or try to justify it, the more they confirm that they know, and approve of it. Only if one said he was sorry for it would he show himself t be a human being.
    So don’t stay overnight, and don’t spend your money there, except if the place you go to is a Bosniak’s.
    Especially, don’t stay at Vilina Vlas. You wouldn’t want to spend a night inside Auschwitz either, now would you?

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: